Aelfgifu Travels

Hi Aelf Crew,

My first stop in Morocco was Tangier, often referred to as the gateway between Africa and Europe.

Perched along the Strait of Gibraltar, Tangier has long been shaped by a mix of cultures and influences, and it feels very different from the image many people first picture when thinking about Morocco. Its whitewashed hillside medina is home to the Dar el Makhzen, once the palace of the sultans and now a museum showcasing Moroccan history and artefacts.

And surprisingly, getting there was cheaper than getting to the airport.

My flight from London Stansted Airport to Tangier cost £14. My train from Liverpool Street Station to Stansted Airport cost £23. Make of that what you will.

My Arrival

I landed at Tangier airport and had already arranged a taxi through my hostel. A fixed price of 150 MAD (~£12) meant there wasn’t any haggling and immediate stress after landing. That said, it did mean I needed cash straight away, so I withdrew a small amount at the airport thinking I was probably being ripped off on the exchange rate and fees…(which later proved correct).

I stayed at Baytalice Hostel, located inside the medina itself. The taxi dropped me near Bab Merican, and from there it was a short walk through the winding streets to the hostel.

The Medina (And Getting Lost)

A medina is the old, walled part of a city found in many countries of North Africa, typically made up of narrow alleyways, small shops, fountains, and historic buildings. 

I like to think I have a very good sense of direction, which had never failed me before…until Tangier. It felt like a maze with every wall looking the same, the alleyways seeming identical and very limited obvious landmarks to help you get your bearings.

At one point, a friend I’d made and I became so desperate to find our way back to the hostel that we started trying to create our own “markers”. Initially this was a washing line… until it got dark and promptly disappeared from view. We then downgraded to using a flower pot near some graffiti as our navigation system, which unsurprisingly turned out not to be particularly reliable either.

Even with street names, a map and unhelpful markers such as flower pots, I still managed to get lost multiple times.

I was also very conscious about constantly pulling my phone out to check directions, partly because I didn’t want to draw attention to myself or risk it being stolen, but mostly because of one particular interaction where I was visibly looking lost, somebody pointed me in the right direction and then aggressively demanded a tip. 

Top Tip from Aelfgifu: be mindful when using your phone and be aware that help often isn’t free.

Exploring Tangier

Once I’d finally started getting my bearings, I really enjoyed wandering around Tangier.

I walked along the Tanja Marina Bay, tried to spot Gibraltar (but unfortunately it wasn’t quite clear enough to see) which felt modern and relaxed compared to the older parts of the city and spent time around Petit Socco, a historic square in the heart of the medina known for its cafés, people-watching, and atmosphere.

Tangier felt like a gentle introduction to Morocco, teaching me a few lessons that were useful as I went on.

If this saved you a headache (or at least made you feel prepared), you can subscribe using the yellow button at the top or bottom of the page.

Navigating North Africa one wrong turn at a time,
Aelfgifu