Aelfgifu Travels

Hi Aelf Crew,

As promised, this second half of my Salzburg posts focuses on the city during Christmas. The original purpose of the trip was inspired by my mother’s long-standing love of Christmas markets and after seeing videos of the Krampuslauf online, Salzburg shot to the top of our list. The trip became less about the stalls and more about witnessing one of Europe’s most unsettling Christmas traditions in person.

Christmas Markets

Salzburg’s Christmas markets had a very traditional feel and prices were surprisingly reasonable. Many stalls operate a deposit system for mugs and glasses, whereby you pay a small extra fee (usually around €1) for your mulled wine glass, then decide whether to return it for your money back after having finished your drink or keep it as a souvenir. We, naturally, kept far more than originally planned.

There are a number of Christmas markets dotted around Salzburg and some of the standout markets (for me) included:

• Salzburger Christkindlmarkt at Dom‑ und Residenzplatz
• Mirabellplatz Christmas Market

Each had a slightly different atmosphere, but all beautifully decorated in their own way.

Krampuslauf: Festive Terror

Every year on December 5th, the night before St Nicholas’ Day, Salzburg hosts the Krampuslauf. Locals dress as Krampus – a half‑goat, half‑demon figure from Central European folklore – and parade through the city to scare away naughtiness before Christmas.

We struggled to find much information online about where to go, so we headed towards the Cathedral for 5pm. By chance, we ran into the Krampus gathering near the Großes Festspielhaus on Hofstallgasse, preparing to start their run.

Whilst they were waiting to start the journey, they would interact with the spectators and in many cases, chase you, whip you or beat you. Unfortunately, I was one of these poor souls. My mother, in a remarkable act of self-preservation, pushed me in front of her to save herself but did find the time to pull out her camera and take a photo of me being whipped – nice!

After the procession, the Krampus took to a stage to show off their elaborate masks and costumes. There were musical performances, drumming, a choir, and even a re-enactment of the Krampus and St Nicholas story to explain the reasoning behind the madness (note: performances are entirely in German).

December 6th hosts a children’s Krampus, which is significantly less traumatising and far more family‑friendly.

What Is a Krampus?

As mentioned above, Krampus is a half‑goat, half‑demon being who traditionally accompanies St Nicholas, punishing misbehaving children during the Christmas season.

Today, Krampus mostly appear in theatrical parades. While the tradition is deeply rooted in Alpine Catholic culture, it has pagan origins tied to winter solstice rituals.

There is some controversy around the tradition, with most Krampus performers being young men (aged 18-25 years old), and the intense atmosphere can sometimes lead to overly aggressive behaviour, fights and violence. There have been calls for greater balance and inclusivity within Krampus groups, with women increasingly joining and reshaping the tradition. I can attest first-hand to the overly aggressive nature of the tradition as explained above!

Alexander Hueter, self‑proclaimed Überkrampus of Salzburg’s annual Krampus Run, summed it up quite nicely: “a good cop, bad cop arrangement”, with St Nicholas bringing the rewards and Krampus bringing the fear.

Final Thoughts

Christmas in Salzburg is magical and unlike anywhere else I’ve visited. One minute you’re sipping mulled wine under fairy lights and the next you’re sprinting away from a horned demon wielding a whip.

I am glad to have experienced the Krampuslauf myself, but must make clear it was absolutely terrifying and if you can’t sprint particularly fast (a lesson I learned the hard way), there’s a very real chance you’ll end up being whipped in the street. Is this something you’d ever be interested in experiencing? Let me know in the comments!

If you enjoy honest travel notes – the practical bits, the quiet moments, and the things I wish I’d known – you can subscribe using the yellow button at the top or bottom of the page to follow along.

From fairy lights to fight-or-flight,

Aelfgifu