Aelfgifu Travels

Hi Aelf Crew,

Today we talk about what can only be described as the ‘English Ferry’. As of August 2024, UK passport holders require a visa to visit Honduras. The process to obtain a visa is not only lengthy, requiring multiple documents but also requires a visit to the embassy. As a result, many Brits are now opting for the so-called ‘English Ferry’, a boat that bypasses Honduras entirely by sailing from El Salvador to Nicaragua. 

The Journey

I booked this through Gekko Explorer for US$95, which I think is fairly absurd. But with a bus through Honduras not being an option, there is no other alternative other than flying. I was picked up from my hostel in El Tunco at 3am and we arrived at Port of La Unión at 7am. We then boarded the shared boat to Potosí, Nicaragua which took about 2.5 hours. After that came a long immigration stop before getting a shuttle to Leon, arriving at 3:30pm – a little over a 12-hour journey all told.

The Exit from El Salvador

Whilst my arrival into El Salvador was pain-free (read about it in my post on ‘Exploring Guatemala’, if interested), the exit process was quite the opposite. We handed over our passports and after an hour-long wait were only allowed them back after a group photo with the border guards. I still have no idea why – perhaps it’s a security measure to match faces with documents on the Nicaraguan side? If anyone knows, please enlighten me.

Crossing the Gulf of Fonseca

Our boat not only looked old and rickety, but the captain appeared to be about 10 years old, with his father supervising nearby. We were provided lifejackets and all of us slept on the boat, having already had a long day. 

After about 2.5 hours, we arrived on a beach in Potosí and had to jump into the water with our bags. This was not ideal given I had a suitcase.

Nicaraguan Immigration

On shore, we handed our passports to border control and queued while officials searched every bag. Unfortunately, this meant two male officers rifling through my clothes – not exactly the highlight of the trip.

They were primarily checking for drones and large cameras, which are prohibited in Nicaragua.

Then came the wait: over two hours sitting in the heat with truly dire toilet facilities, before our names were finally called.

Entry cost US$13, but they demanded exact change, despite having piles of change sat right in front of them. After a few rather tedious conversations through broken Spanish, my $20 bill was accepted and I got given $7 change back…in 10 cent coins. 

Tips to Learn from Aelfgifu:

• Carry cash in small denominations. Bring both notes and coins – the entry fee varies slightly and exact change is required.
• Pre-verification form: You’ll be told to fill one out before entering Nicaragua. Half our group had, half hadn’t and it seemed to make no difference. The form isn’t possible to complete on a phone, so unless you have a laptop or access to a desktop computer, you can’t fill it out.
• No drones or large cameras – they’re strictly prohibited and can be confiscated.
• Prepare for delays – bring snacks, water, and as ever, patience.

All in all, I have definitely had worse travelling experiences but this was not a highlight.

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From El Tunco to soggy suitcases,

Aelfgifu