Aelfgifu Travels

Hi Aelf Crew,

A few general notes and stories from my time in Guatemala today.

Guatemalan Independence Day

By happy coincidence, I arrived in Antigua on September 15th – Guatemalan Independence Day. The entire town was alive with energy: there were parades, music, traditional food and dress.

Throughout my time on buses in Guatemala, I saw people running with torches – a tradition I later learned is part of the Central American Freedom Torch Run, a symbolic relay that has taken place every year since 1964.

The flame begins in Guatemala and is carried by students and athletes across El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua, finally reaching Costa Rica on the eve of Independence Day. It’s a regional symbol of unity and freedom, and seeing it firsthand gave me goosebumps.

For context, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica all share this day of celebration, commemorating their 1821 independence from the Spanish Empire.

Cash and ATMs in Guatemala

ATMs in Guatemala are something of an adventure in themselves.
There are three main kinds:

• 5B (yellow) and Banco Industrial (blue) ATMs – common, but they both charge around US$4 per withdrawal and cap the amount at Q2000 (~US$258).
• BAC Credomatic (red-and-white) – I never saw these but have read online that these are the only ones that don’t charge fees.

ATMs are widespread in cities and larger towns but can be unreliable or empty in smaller places, so it’s always worth keeping a cash buffer. Guatemala remains a largely cash-based economy – card payments are accepted in some hotels and tourist restaurants, but cash is king.

Traffic and Border Adventures

Driving in Guatemala is… an experience. I had noticed the creative driving style throughout the country, but only later learned that traffic accidents result in around one death every four hours, with motorcyclists making up over half of all fatalities.

That statistic made perfect sense in hindsight, particularly after the border crossing from Guatemala into El Salvador.

We were sitting in a standstill queue of lorries at the border when our shuttle driver decided he’d had enough waiting. He swung out to overtake the entire mile-long line on a single-lane road. Unsurprisingly, we ended up half in a ditch, half in the grass, but somehow still upright.

Once we reached the border post – shaken but still alive – our driver collected everyone’s passports, and within twenty minutes, handed them back to us stamped and ready to go.

It was the first time I’ve ever entered a new country without leaving the car or speaking to a border agent – perhaps a reflection of El Salvador’s growing push for tourism.

Hobbitenango in Antigua

If you have extra time in Antigua, consider visiting Hobbitenango, a hobbit-themed village which I sadly didn’t manage to make it to myself, but definitely wanted to flag for anyone interested!

Tips to Learn from Aelfgifu:

• Always carry cash, especially in smaller towns.
• Expect ATM fees and plan ahead for withdrawals.
• On Guatemalan roads, patience (and a good seatbelt) go a long way.
• If time allows, don’t miss Hobbitenango for something a little different.

If you enjoy honest travel notes – the practical bits, the quiet moments, and the things I wish I’d known – you can subscribe using the yellow button at the top or bottom of the page to follow along.

From the ditch,

Aelfgifu