Aelfgifu Travels

Hi Aelf Crew,

Let’s head to Antigua in Guatemala today. A very beautiful quaint town. I stayed in Bloom Hostel which was really friendly – I was one of the only people staying in the hostel – low season really means low here!

Pacaya Volcano

As you may know my dear readers, I hate hiking but every so often I forget this fact and make myself do one before remembering again. This experience was another reminder.

I booked a hike of Pacaya Volcano through my hostel, having been reassured that it’s a “shorter and easier” option compared to the famous Acatenango hike, which boasts incredible views of the active Fuego Volcano.

That said, Pacaya isn’t exactly an easy stroll. It’s steep and dusty with loose gravel underfoot, and men on small horses follow you up the trail shouting “taxi!” anytime you pause for breath or to take a photo. Naturally, my pride wouldn’t let me accept – though it’s good to know the option exists if your legs mutiny halfway up.

I would avoid taking a horse unless absolutely necessary. The animals looked overworked, underfed and this takes the fun out of complaining all the way up the steep incline.

The Landscape

The landscape itself felt like stepping into Mordor, or perhaps landing on Mars. The black volcanic rock, ash and steam means you can roast marshmallows over geothermal vents.

A Few Facts About Pacaya

• Location: Around 2,552m (8,373 ft) high, part of Parque Nacional Volcán de Pacaya.
• Park fee: 100Q (~US$13).
• Duration: Roughly 1.5-2 hours to the top of the main viewpoint.
• Guides: Mandatory, even though the trail is straightforward. It’s partly a safety measure and partly to support the local community.
• Distance: 5.6 km (3.5 miles) out-and-back with a 388m (1,273 ft) elevation gain.

If you’re unsure about tackling Acatenango, Pacaya is a good alternative: shorter, cheaper, and still spectacular.

As a non-hiker, I would say this was a medium-difficulty climb. Although it is steep the whole way, it isn’t a long distance so by the time I stopped to whinge about it we had already made it up.

I actually found going down to be more difficult, and there is one section where you quite literally slide down loose gravel which feels equal parts terrifying and exhilarating.

Note from Aelfgifu

You will be harassed throughout the entirety of this hike. Even though I went with an organised group, the minute you step off the bus to pay your entrance fee you will be bombarded by locals selling walking sticks and horses.

It can feel overwhelming, especially while navigating dust, horse manure, and persistent sales pitches for the “taxis”.

If you don’t think you have the physical fitness to complete the hike without a horse, I’d advise skipping it altogether.

If you’ve done this trek, how did you find it? Did you enjoy that it was over just as quickly as it started or do you actually enjoy hiking? Let me know in the comments!

If this saved you a headache (or at least made you feel prepared), you can subscribe using the yellow button at the top or bottom of the page.

From the cobbles of Antigua to the smoke of Pacaya,

Aelfgifu