Aelfgifu Travels

Hi Aelf Crew,

I’m gracing your screens today with a post on San Ignacio – a town in Western Belize near to the Guatemalan border – surrounded by jungle, caves and a surprising amount of chocolate.

A Quiet Hostel and the Rainy Season

Having arrived at Bella’s Backpackers in San Ignacio and with what I saw at their sister hostel in Caye Caulker, I was expecting a similar bustling hostel. It was explained to me that September time is a low period for tourism, due to it being the rainy season. So whilst the coast was full of backpackers, inland Belize felt calm and almost empty.

AJAW Chocolate & Crafts

As soon as I heard about a chocolate tour less than a mile’s walk from the hostel, I immediately went. AJAW Chocolate & Crafts were friendly, very knowledgeable and it was a wonderful hour of the afternoon well spent. The chocolate making and tasting tour is every hour on the hour throughout Monday to Saturday and costs US$20.

Due to the low season I was the only person on the tour, which was amazing for the one-to-one experience. I would recommend booking in advance if you are in peak season, as it was explained to me that it gets very busy.

I learned how to make traditional Mayan chocolate, grinding roasted cacao beans by hand on a stone slab until they became a thick, glossy paste. I tried the Mayan chocolate drink with chilli and honey (for some natural sweetness) – it was absolutely delicious.

Cahal Pech Archaeological Reserve

The next day I went to Cahal Pech – the oldest known Maya site in Belize. This was only a mile walk from my hostel, but it does sit atop a hill overviewing the Belize Valley. So with the heat, humidity and uphill climb, I was dripping in sweat before even arriving (this seems to be a common theme and I’m afraid to say this will continue throughout the Central America journey of posts to come, my dear readers).

A ticket for a non-resident was US$20 and this gave you access to the museum and a series of interconnected structures of the Maya architecture. I went without a tour guide, but if you’re especially interested in Mayan history, I’d recommend joining an organised tour (there are a few good ones listed on Viator).

I spent about three hours wandering the site, occasionally referring back to a photo of the map I’d taken at the museum entrance. It’s easy to get disoriented – you might find yourself emerging at the top of a temple without quite remembering how you got there.

Cahal Pech, meaning “Place of Ticks” in Yucatecan Maya, sits above the Belize River Valley and offers a beautiful panoramic view of the town and surrounding jungle. It once served as a ceremonial centre with temples, palaces, and a ball court – a reminder of Belize’s deep connection to its Mayan roots.

Tips to Learn from Aelfgifu:

• September is low season so it is exceptionally quiet.
• Don’t miss AJAW Chocolate & Crafts – it’s a must for chocolate lovers.
• Start early in the day to avoid the worst of the heat.
• If travelling in the rainy season, wear good shoes – the trails and temple steps can get slippery after rain.

Next time I’ll be talking about San Ignacio’s most famous attraction, the ATM Cave – keep your eyes peeled!

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A little wiser, a lot sweatier and definitely full of chocolate,

Aelfgifu