Aelfgifu Travels

Hi Aelf Crew,

Today we touch on a trip my mother and I took on our famous hunt for Christmas markets.

We visited Iceland in December 2023, just days after a state of emergency was declared due to a series of earthquakes and concerns over a potential eruption from volcano Fagradalsfjall.

Top Tip from Aelfgifu: Iceland is one of the most geologically active regions in the world, with around 30 active volcanic sites according to Wikipedia. Volcanic activity is unpredictable, but they are more likely during the northern winter months. Whilst most eruptions are relatively short-lived (lasting only a few days or a few weeks), it is wise to keep an eye on the news if travelling at this time of year.

As a result of the seismic activity in the area, the iconic Blue Lagoon landmark closed just days before we were due to go.

Once there, we headed to the Tourist Advice Centre in Reykjavik to see what our options were. We were able to squeeze onto a tour of the famous Golden Circle with a trip to the Secret Lagoon instead. We were keen to get a geothermal bathing experience, so this was fine for our purposes.

Whilst booking this tour, we were advised we would be provided lunch at a tomato greenhouse stop (not on our list of things to see, I must admit, but as this was the only trip we could get booked, we accepted what we were given).

The tour included stops at:

• Þingvellir National Park
• Geysir Geothermal Area
• Gullfoss Waterfall

At lunch, we arrived at the greenhouse and were given details on how they grow tomatoes all year round under artificial lighting. We were then advised we would have unlimited tomato soup and bread in our ticket and if we wanted something more, it would be an additional charge. Starving by this point, my mother and I grabbed a bowl of soup and a slice of bread and dug in. 

To everyone’s surprise, we all found out after starting that lunch wasn’t included after all and the soup was £17 each! You can just imagine the table of horrified faces that then greeted the waitress.

It is safe to say that this was the most expensive bowl of tomato soup I will ever have in my life.

Out of courtesy, I won’t name the place, but let’s just say we were not impressed after this debacle.

Next, we went to the Secret Lagoon. Upon arrival, we were instructed to shower naked before getting into the water, much to my English mothers horror. Open communal showers were apparently no big deal to our Scandinavian counterparts, but we were less enthusiastic. We were able to get away with not taking part in this, but do bear in mind some sneakiness is required here.

On reflection, it might have been worth hiring a rental car so that we had more control over our itinerary, pace and soup budget.

Top Tips to Learn from Aelfgifu:

• Iceland is expensive. Even seasoned Scandinavian travellers like us were caught off guard as tourists. Always double-check what’s included in tours, and budget generously for meals and activities.
• The Golden Circle sites are well worth seeing. If you want more flexibility, consider renting a car as there are routes you can find online to help you see some of the country’s most iconic attractions.
• Embrace the unexpected: from emergency eruptions to communal showers, it’s all part of the Icelandic adventure!

Would you be comfortable showering naked amongst strangers? Let me know below for an ongoing debate with my mother – she can’t be the only one to find this horrifying!

£34 poorer,

Aelfgifu